o vaření, o pečení a o jídle vůbec



Ráda vařím. Ještě radši peču. A dost ráda jím.

Paradoxně moc nemusím vlastní výtvory. Ne, že by nebyly úžasné a většinou hříšně dobré, ale znáte to, nic se nevyrovná momentu, kdy vám někdo naservíruje jídlo pod nos. Mám odbyt zejména v práci u kolegů, ale postupem času zjišťuji, že je to záležitost v jistém směru poměrně nevděčná. Zkuste je navyknout na pondělní koláčky a pak přijít s prázdnýma rukama...

Proto je můj blog o jídle. O vaření, o pečení a o všem dalším, co je s jídlem spojené.

Veškeré názory, návrhy, postřehy a připomínky vítam.



Temperování čokolády a pralinková mánie - výzva the daring bakers

28. srpna 2011 v 13:30 | Slaneček |  Deník amatérské pekařky
Tak tu mám výsledky srpnové výzvy The Daring Bakers. Hostily ji dámy Lisa z Parsley, Sage, Desserts and Line Drivers a Mandy z What the Fruitcake?!. Za ukol jsme dostali vytvořit čokoládové pralinky za použití temperované čokolády a aspoň jeden druh nečokoládových cukrovinek.
Začala jsem okamžitě poté, co byla výzva zveřejněná, naprosto vzrušená (ano, taky si občas říkám, že mi hraní v kuchyni dává víc, než sex, ale rozvádět tohle téma nebudu, dík za pochopení) a to tím, že jsem si objednala vařečku se zabudovaným teploměrem. Hodí se, už v kanclu, když mi ji zásilková služba doručila, zabavila pár lidí minimálně na čtvrt hodiny. Trošku mě překvapilo, že měří ve Fahrenheitech, ale co už, kdo je v kontaktu s Amíkama, detaily neřeší.
Zpět k tomu temperování: Mandy s Lisou uváděly, že kdo jednou zkusí, už nechce jinak a musím jim dát za pravdu. Při polívání marcipánových bonbonů jsem mega rozdíl nezaznamenala, ale pralinky ze silikonové formy byly o třídu výš. Leskly se jak psí kulky a byly velmi, velmi sexy. Myslím, že i významně pomrkávaly, ale nemůžu to říct s jistotou, byla jsem lehce zčokoládovaná.
Teorie tvrdí, že temperovaná čokoláda se v ruce rozpouští pomaleji a pri skousnutí krásně křupne. Nedělala jsem srovnávací test, ale není to tak náročné, abych se tomu s nechutí snažila vyhnout a pokud to má výsledky, jsem pro. Mně presvědčil ten lesk. Každopádně se při procesu temperování čokolády nějak přeskupují krystaly kakaového másla, či co. Kdo chce vědět víc, nastuduje si zde.
Jak se to dělá? Čokoláda se zahřeje na teplotu 45°C (hořká 45-50), následně zchladí na 27°C a znovu maličko zahřeje na "provozní" teplotu, což je u hořké 32°C, u mléčné 30°C a u bílé 29°C. Aha, vy trváte i na těch Fahrenheitech: hořká - 113°F-122°F > 80.6°F > 89.6°F, mléčná - 113°F > 80.6°F > 86°F, bílá - 113°F > 80.6°F > 84.2°F.
Dá se toho dosáhnout dvěma způsoby. Buď rozpustíme a nahřejeme čokoládu na požadovanou teplotu a dvě třetiny premístíme na mramorový povrch, kde špachtlí mícháme tak dlouho, dokud nezchladne na druhou uvedenou teplotu (=27°C) a vrátíme ji ke zbylé třetině, což by jí mělo vyhnat na požadovanou pracovní teplotu nebo rozpustíme a na 45°C zahřejeme jen 2/3 čokolády a přidáme zbylou nerozpuštěnou, která ji zchladí na 27°C a pak už jen nad párou nahřejeme na pracovní teplotu.
U druhé postupu je riziko, že se přidané nerozpuštěné kousky neroztopí docela. Dá se tomu pomoct fénem, pořád musíme totiž počítat s faktem, že nesmíme po tom všem úsilí teplotu čokolády vyhnat výš než na poslední uvedenou hodnotu.
Dál se pracuje jako obvykle, v mém případě vylitím silikonové formičky, naplněním a zavíčkováním a politím marcipánových bonbonů.

Další možností je ganache: 200g hořké čokolády rozpustíme ve 120ml smetany ke šlehání, můžeme přidat instantní kávu, chili, vanilku, peprmintový extrakt, pomerančový likér... fantazii se meze nekladou. Já šla do chili"


V případě marcipánových zázraků jsem smíchala koupený marcipán s pistáciovou pastou, měla jsem zbytek doma a chtěla se ho zbavit, ale nasekané pistácie (případně povařené v cukrovém sirupu) by za jiných okolností bohatě stačily. V druhé variantě jsou nasekané třešně v sirupu.
Nejvíc jsem se potěšila kopií svých oblíbených Reese Peanutbutter Cups. Já je prostě miluju, od doby, kdy jsme si s rodinnými známými z New Hampsire každé vánoce vyměňovali nacionálně zaměřené balíčky. Šla jsem do receptu Nigelly Lawson.
50g třtinového cukru, 200g práškového cukru, 50g másla a 200g burákového másla rozmixovat a naplnit do vylitých silikonových formiček (tou temperovanou čokoládou, samozřejmě), zalít (opět tou čokoládou, na co ji asi máme).
Vychladit, vyloupat, sníst. Aspoň tak to proběhlo u mně.


Na závěr pár důležitých upozornění:
- nechoďte do toho, pokuď nejste ohromně trpěliví a/nebo ohromně hraví. Celá akce je špinavej džob. Jak uvedla jedna z účastnic výzvy: samozřejmě jsem do nakapané čokolády šlápla, takže to vypadalo, že mi po bytě proskákal dementní velikonoční zajíček (volný překlad)
- pokud jste ohromně trpěliví a/nebo ohromně hraví, stejně vám potečou nervy. Myslete na to, že kakaové máslo obsažené v čokoládě je úžasně prospěšné pro pokožku rukou a proto je dobře, že je máte opatlané až nad lokty
- pokuste se použít pouze kvalitní čokoládu - pokud máme rozbít a znovu dát dohromady krystaly kakaového másla, potom potřebujeme čokoládu, která obsahuje kakaové máslo, to dá rozum. Ostatně ty věci vyrobené ze ztuženého pokrmového tuku čokoláda NEJSOU.
- hodně pomáhá mít připravenou misku se studenou a teplou vodou, pro případ, že se nám nedaří dosáhnout/udržet požadovanou teplotu
- voda je nepřítel! Nesmí se dostat s čokoládou do styku!

Tak zatím, já musím jít vyrobit pár dalších pralinek.


 

14 lidí ohodnotilo tento článek.

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